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County Wedding Magazines have arranged special promotions for all of our titles in over 550 Branches of Martin and McColl newsagents. |
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Rovinj - Croatia's Hidden Gem |
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The Adriatic Sea has some of Europe's more romantic coastlines, as Rowena Marella-Daw discovered when she visited the Istrian peninsula of Rovinj, one of Croatia's best-kept secret |
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Crowning the northern tip of the Adriatic Sea are historic gems such as the popular Italian cities of Ravenna, Venice and Trieste, and the lesser-known Croatian town of Rovinj, in the heart-shaped Istrian peninsula.
Rovinj cannot be compared to the more popular Dubrovnik further south. Rather, it attracts visitors who appreciate culture in small doses and an abundance of natural beauty. Calm waters, a temperate climate and the fact that cruise ships are off-limits in this laid-back fishing town, make it all the more alluring.
There are many ways of getting to Rovinj, and flying over the Istrian coast is the best way to peruse the peninsula's beautiful coastline. The Adriatic shows off its emerald waters embracing clusters of islands (one of which is peculiarly shaped like a fish), all rimmed by white sandy beaches.
The road to romance
At Pula Airport, the lush green surroundings and fresh sea breezes welcoming visitors create a sense of anticipation. The road to Rovinj is lined with olive groves, vineyards, farms, and idyllic residential enclaves, but more prominent are the medieval hillside villages and their imposing church towers dominating the skyline.
Those who have been to Venice will find Rovinj to be a familiar sight, with its narrow, cobbled alleyways, intimate town squares, terracotta roof tiles and town houses painted in a spectrum of reds, oranges and yellows. Crumbling walls, wooden shutters and rows of clothes lines criss-crossing between buildings all add to the distinct character of Rovinj, but the similarity with Venice ends here.
With the absence of malodorous canals, tourist-packed gondolas and thousands of overfed pigeons, one can exhale and breathe in the freshest air of the Adriatic. Crystal-clear waters make dining alfresco from one of many cafes and restaurants fronting the harbour a pleasantly romantic experience.
Blessed with beauty
Rovinj was once an island fortified with two walls and seven gates, only one of which remains - Balbi's Arch, dating back to 1680. In 1763, the narrow channel separating the island from the coast was filled in, turning Rovinj into a peninsula. Beyond Balbi's arch, the old town's alleyways lead up to the pinnacle - the Baroque Church of St Euphemia, the town's patron saint, known locally as Sveta Fuma.
Inside this beautiful church is the sarcophagus where the remains of St Euphemia lie, and on the walls are paintings depicting her martyrdom. A native of Calcedon in Constantinople (now Istanbul), St Euphemia was sent to prison during the rule of the Roman emperor Diocletian for her refusal to denounce the Christian faith, and released into the arena where hungry lions awaited. The story goes that she was killed but not devoured by the lions. One stormy night, her marble coffin went missing from the church and miraculously reappeared on the shores of Rovinj around the year 800.
St. Euphemia is considered the town?s protector, and her statue rotates like a weather vane on top of the bell tower. Every year on 16th September, the day she was born, visitors come to view her remains through a window in the sarcophagus.
Gourmet's delights
The Istrians share the same passion for food as their Italian neighbours, which explains why their virgin olive oils and seafood dishes are excellent. Truffles are the jewels of Istrian gastronomy, found mainly among the oak, linden and hazelnut trees in the humid and shady Motovun woods near the River Mirna. The white truffle dates back to the Roman times and was consumed by aristocrats in vast quantities not only for its taste, but also for its aphrodisiac properties.
Where to eat
Couples who love seafood should head for the Lanterna Fish Restaurant in the island of St Andrew (Sv Andrija), a scenic 10-minute ferry ride from Rovinj. Adjacent to Hotel Istra, the sister-hotel of Monte Mulini, the restaurant is set within the old castle and serves delicious fresh seafood for couples to indulge themselves over a candlelit dinner or al fresco with the sunset as backdrop. For more information, visit www.maistra.com
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Climb the bell tower: The 60m-tall tower (that's 15 flights of wooden stairs) has stunning views of the entire peninsula, and on a clear day, Venice can be seen to the north. A small fee of 10 Kunas (approx £1.25), is money well spent.
Sunbathing and swimming: A striking aspect of Rovinj is its cleanliness, particularly the beaches and marina. Along the coves and bay, couples can find a quiet spot to sit, sunbathe and have a picnic.
Biking and hiking: Walk or cycle along the coastal paths through Lone Bay and the protected Zlatni rt Park Forest.
Island-hopping: The island of St Catherine (Sv Katarina), the second largest in the archipelago of 13 islands and islets, is the closest to Rovinj and a mere five-minute ferry ride. The island makes a great vantage point from which to take photos of the old town's skyline. There's also a lovely Mediterranean-style park to explore. The Austro-Hungarian influence can be felt within the remnants of Count Milewski's old castle, which has been incorporated into Hotel Katerina. There are boat excursions around the islands and these can be booked through the tourist office in the town centre.
Vodnjan and Pula: Halfway between Pula and Rovinj is the town of Vodnjan, where the mummified bodies of St Leon Bembo, St Giovanni Olini and St Nicolas Bursa are on display behind the altar of the Church of St Blaise (St Blaza). They are said to be among Europe's best-preserved human relics. According to the Footprint guide, "Ailing believers who have prayed to them have been cured and have left votive offers, such as wedding rings, as a way of thanks." Also found here are about 380 relics, including what is believed to be the tongue of St Mary of Egypt. Also worth a visit are the Roman amphitheatre and the forum in Pula's town centre.
Truffle-hunting: Autumn is truffle-hunting season, so couples can join an experienced truffler and his dog, and later on savour the freshest shavings of white truffle over a pasta dish.
Shopping: The old town's alleyways are lined with shops selling traditional craft and jewellery, interspersed with intimate cafes and bars. Rovinj is home to many artists from the region and neighbouring countries, with workshops and galleries showcasing a range of styles - from contemporary paintings to folk art and glass paintings.
Watch the world go by: In typical Mediterranean take-your-time attitude, find a cosy restaurant (and there are many) and sample Croatia's fine wines - the Istrian bubbly, Misal Brut Millennium and Malvasia are particularly good. Sample the freshest catch - calamari and oysters, perhaps, and finish off with a sip of sweet Malvasia or Malmsey, and maybe even some Grappa. Take in the atmosphere - boats bobbing gently along the harbour, ferries to-ing and fro-ing, while unassuming locals go about their day-to-day affairs. Italian is widely spoken alongside Croatian.
MONTE MULINI HOTEL
Along a quiet bay just around the corner from the town centre lies Monte Mulini Hotel, the only five-star luxury property in Rovinj. Launched in March this year, the hotel's bold, contemporary style is a departure from the traditional rustic Mediterranean décor and a refreshing change that brings with it many luxuries.
Upon entering the split-level lobby, the eyes are immediately drawn towards panoramic views of the outdoor pool, Lone Bay and the protected Zlatni rt Park Forest through glass walls spanning two floors, allowing plenty of natural light through, even on a cloudy day.
The atrium's lounge bar shows off its eclectic side - kitsch patterned carpet reminiscent of the '70s mixed with plush velvet sofas and chairs in warm tones of plum, cream and gold. Stealing the limelight are large oval-shaped lighting fixtures hanging from the ceiling like art installations, and the fiery red Murano glass chandelier in the Mediterraneo Restaurant.
All the rooms and suites are spacious, with balconies overlooking the beach cove and the forest, although the third floor rooms have the best views. A clever feature is the large dressing area, where the wardrobe has sliding doors on both sides, so guests can get changed either inside or outside the bathroom.
CUISINE
At Monte Mulini Hotel, executive chef Tomislav Gretic (who opened Dubai's Asia de Cuba and honed his craft at Zurich's Dolder Grand), takes local dishes to another level - fusing Istrian dishes with Greek, Spanish, Lebanese and North African influences. Some of his memorable creations include fried squash flowers, spinach soup with sautéed wild pigeon, and white truffle poached in Cognac.
Prepare to be served with plates the size of sombreros and small but delicious portions. Even the pepper mill is gigantic. The term dentrex somewhat connotes a sort of dental adhesive, but make no mistake ? this big fish has plenty of tender white mean to sink one's teeth into.
The Wine Vault is a fine dining restaurant serving French cuisine. Vaulted ceilings, terracotta brickwork and the warm glow of hanging candelabra would suit couples who prefer a more intimate setting. There are over 500 labels of local Istrian and international wines, carefully selected by Emil Perdec, one of the country's leading sommeliers.
PAMPERING
Art Wellness is the lifestyle brand behind Hotel Monte Mulini's spa, where the treatments are designed around four themes: wood, stone, water and gold. On the spa menu are a 24-carat gold 'floating séance', a massage using gold particles, a caviar lifting rejuvenation and a specially crafted wood massage. Even the floor of the spa is littered with swirls of gold dust underneath a perspex-type flooring.
The one treatment that's guaranteed to melt away life's stresses has to be the Stone Massage. Aromatic oil is lavishly poured over the entire body, which is then gently massaged along the meridian points with stones from the Adriatic Sea. Not for the ticklish, the stones feel cold on first contact with the skin, but warm up very quickly. The treatment lasts 1-1-1/4 hours, followed with a blissful rest and a cup of herbal tea. Other spa facilities include a small indoor pool, a hydro-massage bath, serail bath, flotation room, Finnish sauna, Turkish bath, and a large outdoor pool.
GETTING THERE
The romantic route: Couples planning a 10-day or two-week honeymoon can make Rovinj their base. From here, there are catamarans to take them on day trips to the medieval town of Ravenna and to Venice. Trieste can be reached by car in less than two hours. Another alternative would be to visit Ravenna, Venice and Trieste, and finally head for Rovinj, where the mind and body can get pampered and recuperate from cultural overload.
By air: The quickest route is to fly direct to Pula Airport, which is only a half-hour transfer to Monte Mulini Hotel. Croatia Airlines (www.croatiaairlines.com) flies to Pula from Gatwick; Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies to Pula from London Stansted.
By sea: Venezia Lines operates catamaran services between Venice and Rovinj from early April to early October, and the journey takes 1-1/2 hours. During the peak season, Emilia Romagna Lines operates catamarans between Cesenatico, Ravenna and Rimini in Italy, and Rovinj, Losinj, Zadar and Hvar. For timetables, visit www.venezialines.com and www.emiliaromagnalines.com
By land: From Trieste, Hotel Monte Mulini can arrange a car transfer, which takes about two hours.
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